Archive for the ‘Gear’ Category

Recording and how we go about it – Part Two

Saturday, August 28th, 2010

Ok. So what do we use and how do we use it?

Let me firstly describe our acutal recording process. In it’s simpliest form we do it like this:

1. The band plays the whole song together and that is recorded on to a stereo track using a  Boss BR-600

2. Jamie then lays down the drum track on to a new stereo track on the Br-600 whilst listening to the original recording through headphones. As many takes are made as is required.

3. Pete then lays down the bass part on to a mono track whilst listening to Jamie’s new drum track through headphones. As many takes are made as is required.

4. Rich then lays down the guitar part to a mono track whilst listening to the drums and bass parts through headphones. As many takes are made as is required.

5. At this point the vocal parts are recorded on to mono tracks. The original recording in step 1 would have been made using a Shure PG-58 for Vox (both Rich and Pete use the PG-58s live). This is swapped for a Behringer C-1 Condenser microphone which is run to the BR-600 via an ART Pro Audio Tube MP preamp (which has been retro-fitted with a Electro-Harmonix 12ax7 tube).

6. The song is then played back using the ‘takes’ that each of us were happy with. Any errors/corrections are then made prior to the final mixing and mastering.

All the above would normally happen in our rehearsal studios. The priority is to get a good take of the drums and vocals. The BR-600 is ultra-portable so bass and guitar parts can be recorded away from the studio, but it’s useful to get guide tracks down for those parts at the very least.

In part three, we’ll look at the kit we use in a little more detail. Keep an eye out for it.

Recording and how we go about it – Part Three

Saturday, August 28th, 2010

This is where the fun begins.

Boss BR-600

The Boss BR-600 - A stunning bit of kit

I got a Boss BR-600 in May/June of 2010 as I had loads of ideas for songs but no real way of getting them recorded. I didn’t know whether to go for the BR-600 or the BR-900 but after a good chat with the ultra helpful (and very knowledgeable) chaps at Nevada Music I settled on the 600. After getting it home and having a play around it quickly became obvious that this was a seriously powerful piece of kit.

I’ll be the first to admit that I had to get my head around V-Tracks. The number of COSM effects is amazing as it their quality. The built in drum machine is as versatile as it is realistic and the whole recording process is, after a little practice, a joy.

My one and only criticism is that of the eight tracks, four are stereo i.e. two pairs. Not the end of the world, just a little limiting.

There are two built in mics on the BR-600. Frankly, they are amazing. I recall when I first recorded the band and played the track back through the P.A. We were all blown away by the frequency range that those tiny little mics could pick up.

All the demo tracks that have been/will be posted on the website will have had their drum tracks recorded using the built-in microphone on the BR-600. For anyone who’s interested, when recording, the BR-600 is located about two feet away from the front of the drums and circa two feet off the ground. It’s placed slightly off centre towards the floor toms.

As mentioned in Part Two, We’ll record an entire song played as a band on to a stereo channel. This gives us a live reference for recording each individual part later on.

The drum track is the first to be recorded. Jamie will don the headphones and play along to the reference track. This new drum track forms the back-bone of all the other tracks for that particular song and is recorded on to another stereo track.

After the drum tracks have been recorded and everyone is happy with them, the bass guitar is recorded on to a mono track. The bass guitar is connected directly to the BR-600 and the appropriate COSM setting it selected. Pete likes to have the new drum track at the front of the mix with a hint of the original recording behind for reference.

The same process is repeated for guitar.

Behringer C-1

Next comes the recording of the vocals. Some songs will only have a lead vocal where-as others will have backing vocals. The recording process is the same for both.

Using a Behringer C-1 Condenser microphone connected to a ART Pro Audio Tube MP microphone preamp (which has been retro-fitted with an Electro-Harmonix 12AX7, the lead vocals are recorded with zero F/X to avoid colouration. This helps enormously during the mixing and mastering stages. A pop shield is placed in front of the mix to avoid unwanted bangs and whistles.

The Behringer C-1 is a pretty cheap bit of kit. You wouldn’t know it though judging by the results that we’re hearing from it. Originally I used my mixing desk’s phantom power to run the mic (it need +48v phantom power to operate at it’s full potential) but I was advised that it’s a good idea to use a dedicated microphone preamp.

After some lengthy research I settled on the ART Pro Audio Tube MP to power the C-1.

ART Pro Audio Tube MP Preamp

This little beauty adds another level of clarity and warmth to the already great sounding C-1.

Part of this warmth is due to the replacement tube. I knew that the ART Tube MP would sound pretty good out of the box but it was obvious that the tube it was supplied with probably wouldn’t be the best. More research suggested swapping it out for a Mullens, JJ or EH would yield great results. I plumbed for the Electro-Harmonix 12AX7. If it didn’t sound as good as the original valve then I’d only be down a few quid and I’d probably give the JJ a whirl. As it was, the EH blew the ART supplied tube out of the water.

Electro-Harmonix 12aAX7

The ART Tube MP takes a little getting used to. It’s controls are basic but the results are stunning. Comparing a vocal take that’s been recorded with the Tube MP and one that hasn’t i.e. just using the preamp/phantom power from my mixing desk is like listening to a song being played with the speakers wrapped in cotton wool and then that wool being removed to reveal a very expensive Bang and Olufsen. The contrast is that significant.

The ART supplied tube was OK, don’t get me wrong, but I really do think that for a few extra quid, ART could have fitted a better tube. Also, and this is my only other gripe about the Tube MP, why didn’t they fit an on/off switch?

Despite the above niggles, if it broke tomorrow, I’d buy another one in a heartbeat. If anyone reading this has valve powered home stereos or studio kit for that matter, are you still using the tubes that were supplied with that kit? Is it time for a change? Tube changes are easy but always do a bit of research first.

Ok. All the tracks have been recorded. Everyone is happy with their individual contributions to the song. A very rough mix will be played through the PA at the rehearsal studio. On the whole, it all sounds great. All the tracks fit together nicely. The beginning is tight, the middle is great and the end leaves a lasting impression. There is, however, a significant amount of work to do before that song can be unleashed on the world.

Cakewalk (by Roland) MA-7A desktop monitor speakers – Brilliant!

This is the point in the show where I’m going to hold my hands up and admit to a big mistake. I thought that I could mix our songs using my rather expensice Panasonic headphones. What a mistake. I also thought that I could use the Cambridge Soundworks speakers that are connected to my PC. WRONG! Big time.

To do the job properly you have to use dedicated monitor speakers. I wasted quite a few hours work before admitting to myself that I’d overlooked this vital bit of kit.

Again, more research. I didn’t know where to start looking. I must have spent a good couple of hours reading reviews and comments for the plethora of monitor speakers out there. You can spend a few tens of pounds or a few thousand!

I settled on the Cakewalk (By Roland) MA-7a desktop monitor speakers. I picked them up from Nevada Music, got them home, unboxed them, plugged in the BR-600, played back a rough mix of REM’s ‘The One I Love’ that we’d recorded a few days previsouly and my jaw dropped! The difference was incredible.

By using dedicated monitor speakers I have found that I can get a significantly better mix of all the tracks.

Mastering is also a real pleasure once you’re using good quality speakers. You know what you’re hearing is going to sound good pretty much where-ever it’s reproduced be it in the car, shower, kitchen, supermarket, where-ever.

During mastering, the Boss BR-600′s internal Mastering Tools come in to their own. Without them, I would have had to spend hundreds of pounds on either software tools or external hardware processors to achieve what’s in the BR-600. How do Boss do it for the money?

Once I have the final master, it’s transfered over to my PC and published to the world. Note, at no point do I use a PC/MAC for recording. Everything you’ll hear on this site has been produced on the BR-600.

The Boss BR-600 has 8 tracks each with 8 V-Tracks. That a total of 64 tracks! This gives plenty of scope for doing clever things with bouncing to make guitars, bass and vocals sound ‘bigger’ and ‘wider’. I think that’s another blog posting on it’s own though.

Thanks for reading.

More rehearsals with Howard

Thursday, July 8th, 2010

We’re really excited about having Howard on board. I know we keep going on about him but the difference he’s made to the band in the few short weeks that he’s been with us is beyond words.

Here’s a couple more piccys from last nights rehearsal.

The ladies favourite, Howard! He rocks

This is a close up of the very microphone that Howard uses to belt out the tunes!

Stay tuned for more updates.

Keep it real!

My gear – by Pete

Friday, January 1st, 2010

Well, any bass player’s rig doesn’t sound that exciting as we’re really only rumbling along in the background….unless you’re me, and you like being ‘felt’ as much as heard.

I play a variety of basses, my main one at present being a Yamaha RBX375 (I know, it sounds like a motorbike) which is a 5 string active and has a wide range of tones to compliment the wide range of songs we cover.

My other two are essentially spares, one I take on stage being a Fender Squier Precision on which I replaced the mediocre pickups for Gotoh’s which enhanced the timbre no end.

I also have an old Stagg Fusion which I again changed the woefully inadequate p’ups for a pair of Precisions and a single Jazz which again completely gave it a new voice.

My main amplification consists of a 210 watt,  1 x 15” Peavey 300 combo which is totally insane and needs to be pulled right back on the gas pedal. I wouldn’t change it for all the tea in Tesco’s as I’ve tried other combo’s but nothing comes near. I have a spare rig which is a 1 x 15” Acoustic cab powered by a 120 watt Carlsboro Stingray standing by in an emergency. (Hope it never happens, the Peavey is an extension of me and I know it’s soul and heartbeat).

I only have one stomp box, a Zoom B1 which at the moment is only used for one number, and I use Cleartone cables as I believe in getting the complete character from the guitar to the amp with next to no loss in signal, and just for the record, I use tortoiseshell plectrums as I love the versatility and ‘click’ over plastic and nylon.

Well, that’s my stuff, many apologies if your fillings come loose and your beer falls over.

11th April 2010
Had a bored moment and decided I’d have a change in my gear. I’ve still got the Yamaha RBX375, but now I’m used to 5 wires I feel there’s something missing when I play a 4. So thanks to jolly old ebay, I shifted my two other basses and got an ESP B-55. It’s not active but sounds a lot more lively and ‘Precision-ish’ which is the sound I’ve always liked. The neck’s not as wide either and it’s more of a comfy ‘C’ shape, so it’s a breeze to play. Nice and refreshing for my old digits.
While I was browsing I also came across another Peavey combo, a 1 x 15″ 150 watt TNT going for a song so I grabbed that too as a spare which I christened at The Curlew last night (10th April). It’s not as powerful as the 300 but it does the job nicely for a pub, AND it’s on castors. (Nice).
Well that’s me for now, no doubt I’ll be upgrading again in the near future, so until then, remember – two’s company, three’s just bloody tiring…

Gear – What do I use?

Thursday, December 31st, 2009

At most gigs, most guitarists/guitar players/guitar owners will get a member of the audience ask them about their set-up.

I thought that someone might be interested to know about my rig. There’s not much to it as I like a nice, simple sound. I’ll start from the plectrum and work all the way through to the amp.

1. Plectrums – I use Tortex .88 (green) plectrums. Used them for years. They last ages, tend not to slip and are a nice colour

The Ibanez ART-120 - My main guitar

2. Guitars – My main guitar is now a white Ibanez ART-120 with active humbuckers.

I’ve been playing this guitar just just over a year now having originally walked in to my local guitar warehouse with the intention of buying a Les Paul.

This guitar sounds great (in my opinion, naturally), plays fantastically well and has tremendous tuning stability (crucial for gigging).

Vester Strat - This isn't my one, I 'borrowed' this piccy until I get one of my own

My second/backup guitar is a Vester Strat copy. It’s based on a ’57 Strat  but with some modifications.

I took the original pick-ups out and loaded EMG SA’s. I also replaced the volume/tone knobs with chrome ones.

This guitar was a birthday present from my then girlfriend, now wife, Mandy. I’d had my eye on this guitar at the local music shop for ages until, one day, he’d sold it. Little did I know that he’d sold it to her. I pestered him for weeks to get another one in but a replacement never arrived. Now I know why.

I used this guitar as my main one for years (must be getting on for 15!) and now use it as my backup/2nd guitar or for anything that needs that middle pick-up bluesy sound.

For some reason I don’t have a picture of my Vester on it’s own! A little daft but there we go.

As I’ve never been one to get on very well with tremolos, this guitar has had it’s tremolo set back as far as it will go so it’s fixed. I replaced the tuners some years ago which gave the guitar incredible tuning stability.

I only use D’Addario XL110 (.010″ to .046″) strings although the ART-120 does have Ernie Ball Regular Slinkys on at the moment for reasons that escape me.

The more observant among you may see me sport the occasional Telecaster (I have a black Squire Silver Series one).  The guitar has the original pickups fitted which sound really good but simply don’t have the output of the EMG’s in the Vester or the Humbuckers in the Ibanez. This means there’s potentially quite a bit of knob twiddling required if I want to use it live. Personally I like “set and forget” which is probably why I don’t use it live much.

Boss AB-2 box - Does exactly what is says on the tin

3. Boss AB-2 – I use this to split my signal to a tuner (on the ‘b’ channel) and then the main signal path to the amp (on the ‘a’ channel).

It’s useful for when you want to change guitar or need to kill your sound quickly. My only criticism is that you can only use batteries in it, there’s no socket for a mains adaptor. I’m just being a little picky though and a pair of AAA Duracells seem to last forever.

The LED indicators are clear and bright right up to the point of battery failure. The construction is very, very rugged and I think it would withstand quite a pounding.

A very useful addition to any musicians armoury.

Marshall MT-1 Tuner

4. First split – Marshall tuner

I’ve tried lots of tuners in my time. Some have been better than others.  This one was dirt cheap, I think I paid about £10 for it. The price doesn’t reflect in the quality though. Yes it’s a plastic case that wouldn’t survive if you stood on it but it’s dead easy to use, has bright LED indicators for tuning up in low light conditions and batteries seem to last forever.

I’d buy another one if I lost this one which is the first time I’ve said that about a tuner.

My one gripe is that it has an input but no output so you can’ add it to your chain. I suspect though at £10, you probably wouldn’t want it colouring your sound.

Behringer HB01 "Hellbabe"

5. Second split – Behringer HB-01 Wah-wah

I got the HB01 on the recommendationfrom a friend. It’s just so damn versatile. There are a wealth of settings which is incredibly useful when you’re switching between single coils and humbuckers.

One clever feature is that the pedal is sprung and kept in the traditional ‘closed’ position. As soon as the treadle is moved a fraction of a nanometer the wah effect is active.

The wah-wah range is brilliant from really throaty lows to ear-stinging highs.

The Behringer DC9

6. Behringer DC9 Compressor

Now, there’s always been and always will be a debate about where certain pedals should go in a signal chain. I must have read a dozen magazine articles and looked at two dozen web site articles on the subject. One point they all seem to agree on is that a compressor should go after a wah-wah (if you’re using one).

If I’m playing a wah heavy song like, say, White Room, the DC9 goes on right from the start. Everything is kept nice and even. I only add a little bit of compression to my signal. You’ve got to be soooo careful with these things. Compression is probably one of the most dangerous F/X you can use with regards to killing your sound.

Behringer DD-400 - Digital Delay

7. Behringer DD-400 Digital Delay

Are you noticing a theme yet? “Why Behringer” I hear you cry? Well, this deserves a reasonably detailed answer. You’re not getting one, I’m just saying it deserves a detailed answer.

In truth, most Behringer pedals are based on Boss circuitry. The cases are plastic rather than the cast aluminium that Boss use but who cares? It’s the same sound for less money. Go figure.

In truth, I use delay so rarely that I couldn’t justify spending a shed load of cash on a Boss, Dod, Digitech etc when the Behringer does an admirable job.

I’d highly recommend these DD400′s. The only point I’d make is that you have to watch the output levels. Also, get a mains adaptor because a 9v Duracell battery lasts about 30 mins!!

Behringer PB-100 Preamp booster

8. Behringer PB-100 Pre-amp Booster

This is used for soloing. Great for when you want to lift your volume by just a few db’s and make yourself heard. Adding a little extra treble really helps cut through. I’ve used a compressor to lift volume in the past but I saw one of these PB-100′s listed on eBay and thought it would be worth try.

Dead easy to use with just bass, treble and gain dials. Again, this pedal is highly recommended but make sure you use a mains adaptor as it’s a battery killer. Well worth it though.

Tip: if you use a lot of gain on your amp, as I tend to do, then it might be worth just backing it off a fraction to accommodate the boosted signal that your going to deliver from the PB-100.

Vox VT100 - a 100w 2x12" powerhouse of an amp

9. Vox VT100 – I’ve amazed myself whilst writing this blog entry. I can’t believe I’ve got next to no photos of any of my kit on it’s own! I really must rectify that, if nothing else for insurance purposes.
Anyhow, this is my Vox VT100 (which replaces my Marshall 8080 after many, many years of faithful service). Man alive! It’s got a great tone, plenty of crunch and packs a real punch. For a 2×12″ it certainly knows how to move air.
I’d like to get another on and split my signal between the two. Problem is, they’re like Alfa Romeo 166′s in that once people get hold of them, they keep them forever.
Thanks for reading.

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